The Champagne house Mumm – operating here under the name Mumm Central Otago – has released an AU $80 pinot noir from New Zealand’s most famous pinot noir region. It’s 14.5% alcohol, was matured in 50% new French oak, and comes in a hefty/heavy bottle. It’s a complex wine, well-framed by tannin, with undergrowth and cherry-berry flavours sitting pretty on the palate. Cedarwood oak is a bit too heavy-handed for my liking and the finish isn’t overly persistent, but it’s a decent representation of what Central Otago does with pinot noir. It’s a good drink. That said, roughly half the asking price is, arguably, a case of ‘paying for the name’. If you wanted me to put a score on this I’d be in the vicinity of 91-92/100.