Elanto Vineyard's first wines put this new Mornington Peninsula producer on the map, from the start.

I'm not sure that I've ever seen anything quite like the new Elanto vineyard on the Mornington Pensinula. Is it Australia's largest close-planted vineyard? You'd reckon. It was all planted in one go, in 2018, and when I say all I mean 10.6 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in one continuous vineyard, with rows only 1.2 metres apart, and vines only 0.75 metres apart. This spacing and this area means that the Elanto vineyard is 10.6 hectares of 11,111 vines each hectare, which equates to a vineyard made up of 117, 777 individual vines, arranged into eight separate blocks. The fact that it has all gone in essentially at once, and that it's all trained to within an inch of its life, and that it was all mapped according to expert geological consultation – not to mention that no expense at any point along the way has been spared –  means that even to a non-expert eye it's abundantly clear that something extraordinary is in the works here.

The location of this vineyard is an elevated, south-east facing site at Balnarring, overlooking Western Port Bay. The soils are deep and free-draining, and when you look at the trunks of the vines now they look advanced well beyond their years. Clearly, the vines have taken to this site as if they've found their forever home. Each vine, importantly, is being cropped at a mere 500 grams, which is minuscule according to the general run of things.

Elanto is not open to the public, and doesn't plan to have a cellar door, though in time it will take appointments. I travelled to see the vineyard more or less for one reason: because the winemaker behind it is Sandro Mosele, the former highly-awarded winemaker at Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate. Sandro is generally afforded guru status. I parked out the front of the vineyard, not knowing that the road to the winery is, like Sandro Mosele's career in wine, long and winding. As I walked up this road the vineyard appeared over the rise of land to my right, and as it did the story stopped being about Sandro, and became almost entirely about the vineyard.

I say almost because Sandro Mosele has never stopped working in and with wine, but he's disappeared from public view for the better part of a decade. Elanto is Sandro Mosele's triumphant return. I'm putting words in his mouth when I say that he has a point to prove but, whether he feels that way or not, that's how it comes across. This isn't just any old return to the tools. This is zero to 100, if not zero to 1000. This land, once a chicory farm but more recently used to graze animals, has now reached its ultimate destination: as one of the best vineyards in Australia.

Such a bold claim might sound ridiculous. I've walked the place and I've tasted from it. The whole site is planted to Pinot Noir and chardonnay and that's it. The first wine I tasted – chardonnay, from barrel – was so intense with pure chardonnay flavour that it felt redefining. The pinot noirs from barrel were all manner of things but at all times, too, were deep, pure and prolonged. Every time the bung of a barrel was popped it felt like a new era had been opened. You would never in a million years guess that these wines have been grown on relatively young vines. In fact, it's the last thing you would think.

When Sandro Mosele was ten years old, he'd already learned how to finish concrete. His dad was a concreter. Sandro Mosele has spent his whole career finishing things, meticulously, to his own exacting standards. He says, as we look out across this remarkable vineyard, 'I can't stand it when I look at a vineyard and I notice that there's a vine missing in a row.' Nothing goes unnoticed. Everything is attended.

Reviews and scores of the two new wines are available on The Winefront site.